The ignition timing for an engine dictates when a spark is fired to ignite fuel in the combustion chamber. This timing has to be set properly to fully utilize the energy released by the combustion of fuel.Massey ferguson 135 gearbox oil capacity
If a spark is fired too early or too late, then all the fuel being injected is not utilized and goes to waste. Bad timing also affects the emissions from an engine. Adjusting the timing on a Toyota Camry requires a few tools and some precise mechanical adjustments. Pop the hood of your Camry. Use a small service wire to connect terminals "TE1" and "E1" on the check connector.
Run the engine between 1, and 1, RPM for 10 seconds then let it return to idle. Attach the timing light to the vehicle by connecting the black clip to the negative terminal on the car battery and the red clip to the positive terminal.
Connect the timing wire to a spark plug wire for cylinder 1, the one closest to the belts and pulleys on the front of the vehicle. Use the timing light by pressing the trigger and aiming at the timing mark chart on the engine to make sure that the timing mark on the timing cover is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft pulley. Rotate the distributor housing and tighten the distributor bolt using a wrench of the appropriate size and recheck the timing if it is not 10 degrees BTDC.
Remove the service wire and check the idle advance timing. This should be between 13 and 22 degrees BTDC at idle. Make any adjustments with the distributor bolt if necessary. Disconnect the timing light and service wire when the ignition timing is set to the desired specifications.
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Step 1 Start the vehicle and let it get to normal operating temperature. Step 2 Pop the hood of your Camry. Step 3 Use a small service wire to connect terminals "TE1" and "E1" on the check connector. Step 4 Run the engine between 1, and 1, RPM for 10 seconds then let it return to idle. Step 5 Attach the timing light to the vehicle by connecting the black clip to the negative terminal on the car battery and the red clip to the positive terminal.
Step 6 Connect the timing wire to a spark plug wire for cylinder 1, the one closest to the belts and pulleys on the front of the vehicle.
Step 7 Use the timing light by pressing the trigger and aiming at the timing mark chart on the engine to make sure that the timing mark on the timing cover is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft pulley. Step 8 Rotate the distributor housing and tighten the distributor bolt using a wrench of the appropriate size and recheck the timing if it is not 10 degrees BTDC.
Step 9 Remove the service wire and check the idle advance timing.Having trouble using the Discussion Forums? Contact us for help. Click here for more information. We have a new belt, but don't have the information on the timing marks for the engine. Does anyone know how to set the timing on this model? Post a Reply Report this post.
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Email Address. Remember me.Having trouble using the Discussion Forums? Contact us for help. Click here for more information. Back to discussion list My forum profile Toyota 42 2FGC Ignition Timing I'm looking for ignition timing, and any other specs, I can get for this older model lift truck.
Post a Reply Report this post. Showing items 1 - 11 of 11 results. Sort messages by: Newest first Oldest first. Thanks so much. Add 4 to 6 degrees to account for LP fuel. Engine designation is 5R. The actual "rate of combustion" for a single charge of the combustion chamber remains constant throughout the RPM range and is dependent on the fuel type as to exactly how fast the particular fuel burns.
LPG fuel combustion is slower than that of gasoline so LPG needs to be lit earlier in order to have the combustion at the proper stage when the piston crosses TDC from compression stroke to power stroke. I will search for any manuals that apply to 2F models at work today and post tomorrow. I'll look for that number.
And yes, total spark advance is an interesting situation. Hence, relative to gasoline, above idle speed we need more advance at the lower end and less advance at the high end.
Outside of all that I'm still hoping to get the factory spec on base static timing. Look on the engine for a "designation flat" that has been ground smooth and stamped with a Toyota designation ID for the engine. In this case, the designation might be 4P. I'm not sure you understand the reasoning behind the need to advance the spark point of an engine, but the need for advancing it becomes even more important at higher RPM than at idle, and that is why there are vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms in the distributor.
Propane fueled. I can appreciate the need for more initial advance at low rpm and reduced advanced at high rpm. I'm not too concerned with that as there is a factory version of the distributor on the engine. Initial, basic, timing is my concern. Thanks for looking into this. I'd be interested in a copy of that manual and would provided appropriate consideration for accessing that. I will search our "archives" at work to see if there is a 2F manual.
Is the engine running on LPG or gasoline? That will affect the needed spec for ignition timing. LPG has to be "lit" earlier than gasoline, so the timing will be a little more advanced than if gasoline fueled. Used to work on a number of these- don't have specific specs but is there an issue you're dealing with?Crane and tractor columbus oh
Posted 5 Feb Reply by bbforks Pennsylvania, United States bbforks at Hotmail dot com Customers love technology- until they have to pay to fix it!
Last Week's Most Read News 1.Remember Me? What's New? Results 1 to 4 of 4. Thread: 3Y timing. The way it's supposed to work in print according to Toyotayou remove the vacuum connections at the vacuum advance, clamp them off, set the base timing and then I don't get an instant advance.
I do see the timing advance when I rev the engine and the instructions with the timing light, running counter to Toyota's instructions, indicate this IS what I'm supposed to be seeing. My van Trusty runs great, too Trusty ran for quite awhile with a stuck-open t-stat which can cause excessive carbon accumulation, and he does have emissions issues, too, which could also stem from carbon blockage So IF he actually has a timing advance problem, I would suspect vacuum system issues rather than the vacuum advancer itself.
That having been said, I've been told by another '80s Toyota buff that the diaphragm in the vacuum advancers DO die. Part no longer available from Toyota I already tried.
Replacing a Timing Belt
Wish I could add more; maybe someone else here will shed some light on this. Otherwise, I'll report back when I get PJvan running finally and discover whether her timing advance behaves the same way. Re: 3Y timing interesting. Tags for this Thread timing 3ytiming advance 3y.
How to Set the Timing on a 1991 Toyota Camry
All times are GMT The time now is AM. All rights reserved.Your six-year-old econobox is starting to show a bit of wear and tear, but everything mechanical still works fine. Until it doesn't.
Specifically, the engine suddenly goes dead silent one fine day. Your mechanic says your timing belt failed, then he chuckles into his shirt pocket.
Parts and Service
Now he gets to charge you for the tow, the belt replacement and a valve job, because there's no compression on two cylinders. You're one of the unfortunates with an "interference engine" -- an engine that can leave one or more valves still propped open far enough to contact a piston when the belt parts.
Sadly, sales brochures don't list whether an engine might suffer catastrophic damage if the belt goes. You probably could have avoided this particular bit of unpleasantness with timely maintenance. It's best to replace the timing belt according to your carmaker's recommended schedule.
For the record, many engines -- like those in more expensive models -- still use timing chains, rather than belts, like they did back in the day before the popularity of overhead camshafts. Unlike belts, timing chains usually don't have a routine replacement interval. So replacing this cogged reinforced-rubber belt at regular intervals -- generally every 60, miles unless the car manufacturer specifies longer -- is a lot less expensive and aggravating than having it break first.
For your car's maintenance schedule, consult the owner's manual, alldata. Though you'll spend only a few minutes replacing the timing belt itself, it can take an hour or more to dig down through the spaghetti of hoses, wiring and covers found in a modern engine bay. We even had to disconnect and cap a pair of fuel lines when we did the job on this VW 2. Study the procedure before digging in, either in a service manual or on the Web.
On most transverse four-cylinder engines, you'll have to remove the passenger-side motor mount in order to gain access to the timing belt. This means the entire powertrain needs to be supported in that area while you're working. And finally, getting to the lower portion of multipiece timing belt covers usually requires underbody access. A fender cover doesn't hurt either, to protect the paint from your belt buckle and dropped tools. We cannot stress this enough: Be careful!
Make sure you know where the timing marks are on your engine, and that you have them set up properly with No. If you try to remove and replace the timing belt with the engine in any other position, chances are good you'll throw things out of time. Then you'll get confused and have to pull off the valve cover as you try to determine when No. Get your marks lined up right the first time. After you remove the top section of the timing belt cover, you should see a timing mark on the camshaft sprocket -- this mark usually lines up with the edge of the cylinder head or valve cover.
For the crankshaft below, there probably will be a timing mark on the damper pulley that lines up with another mark on the lower cover. Or, the service manual may direct you to the transmission end of the engine to look through a hole in the bellhousing for a timing mark on the flywheel. The flywheel is bolted to the other transmission end of the crankshaft. On some vehicles, you may find these marks in all three places. Of course, there are professional engine-support rigs available for purchase or rent.
But as you can see in our photos, some lumber and an adjustable tiedown strap work just fine to support the powertrain while you remove that cumbersome motor mount. Once it's out of the way, though, you're almost home.
Just remove the rest of the timing belt cover sections and turn your attention to the tensioner pulley mechanism. This tensioner may be an automatic hydraulic type that you simply crank in one direction to remove the old timing belt. Or, you may have to loosen the tensioner pulley adjustment bolt to release the tension and the belt.
Before proceeding, confirm which way the engine rotates during normal operation. Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse first if you need to disconnect fuel lines the way we did. Don't ask how we found this out.Forum Rules. This website or its third-party tools process personal data e.
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Invalid email. This is required. Login to Your Account. Remember Me? Register Forgot password? What's New? Results 1 to 10 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. However, I have a early 's Toyota forklift an FG14 which is equipped with a Toyota 3P four cylinder engine of cc displacement. The engine desperately needs an overhaul since previous owners provided minimal maintenance.
The local Toyota industrial truck dealer has been able to provide parts, but has been unable to provide a service manual. I am willing to purchase a copy, pay for copying costs and related fees, or whatever to obtain the necessary information. In passing, I've never seen such an abused engine. I literally had to chisel the sludge from the oil pan.
If the cam bearings had not been terminally damaged from the sludge, the engine would have run for another thousand hours or so.
Thanks for any assistance that might be forthcoming. There should be a professional engine rebuild shop not the guy that hand grinds valves in the back room near you.
Most have good access to basic data related to engine builds. If the sludge is as you say it is going to need their services any way. IOW you probably don't need the real manual. An other thought poofwhat car used the engine probably a corolla.
Look for the Haynes manual on the bay. I have tried both Haynes and Clymer with no luck. Apparently, the 3P engine was used too early late 's and early ' s in both cars and trucks besides industrial trucks for coverage by the after market manuals. I did purchase the Toyota engine guide as you suggested and will depend on the automotive machine shop for any additional information which I need.
In my search, I learned that the 3P and 4P engines were also used in Komatsu industrial trucks, but the local Komatsu dealer couldn't help with a service manual.
Again, thanks. If you like I can scour my neighbours data books they're a long established small country engine shop which usually contain all the relevant clearances torques etc etc though not a ''how to'', Let me know if you want me to,Rodding Roundtable. Classified Ads Search Ads. Toyota R5 Specs. View previous topic :: View next topic.
Francois Xavier MB Canada. I stopped by a friends welding shop today and found out he had torn the motor out of his forklift, he had the block and heads sent out to be redone and had started to reassemble the thing. The problem is he doesn't have a manual and is not that familiar with engines, I can help him out a bit but I just had surgery and am not that mobile yet. I'm almost positive he doesn't have the timing right as the marks on the crank and cam sprockets don't line up to anything.
Does anybody know where I can get on line info on the thing: best guess is that it's a 82 Toyota R5 engine?? Back to top. Went to the library today, LOL, I found all kinds regular Toyota stuff but nothing on this particular engine. Perhaps tomorrow I'll try a forklift repair shop and see if I can pry some info out of them. If you have a model number, we may have a book at work I can get copies of.
We have used several models of Toyota lift trucks. Thanks Frank I sent you an email with the info. Olderndirt wrote:. Thanks everyone, I think we have most of it figured out now, I did the bottom end today, the timing is the only tricky part but I think we have it figurd out, it's actually timed to two of the timing chain links.
If I get it fired up I'll post if not if not I'll! All times are GMT - 5 Hours.
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